There are so many leather products out there to choose from these days. Getting an education definitely takes time. Determining which type of hide you want your leather to be is just the beginning. Conscientious consumers need to know how that leather is made into the products they’re buying, and the tanning process used to make it.
Each and every part of the process is important, but it all starts with the layer of the hide that’s used, how that layer is processed, and the pros and cons that come with each layer (“type”) used.
There are 4 official types of leather used to make the coats, purses, shoes, boots, belts, furniture, etcetera, that are available:
1. Full-grain
Full-grain leather is considered the very best available. It’s also the strongest and long-lasting when treated and cared for properly. Full-grain hides must pass strict standards related to how the grain looks and flows, to ensure optimal look and feel. This type of leather is offered in aniline, semi-aniline, and vegetable tanned finishes (click here to learn about leather finishes).
Full-grain simply means that the top exposed surface of the leather hasn’t been sanded down to reduce imperfections or markings, giving it a rougher texture over other types. In the case of jackets, boots, and other clothing items, full-grain leather is less likely to absorb moisture from sweat due to its higher rate of breath-ability.
Full-grain leather is much stronger than other variants, and also known for developing an eye-pleasing patina as it ages. A patina is a darkening of the material’s natural color, which many leather consumers prefer over the look of freshly manufactured leather products.
2. Top-grain
Top-grain leather comes from the same top-layer of the hide as full-grain. The difference is that top-grain has been surface sanded and polished to remove undesirable imperfections and markings. Top-grain is much less expensive than full-grain, and offered in aniline, semi-aniline, vegetable tanned and sometimes other finishes.
Top-grain is considered second in quality to full-grain, but some consumers prefer it because it’s so much more flexible and less rigid than full-grain. This is due to the fact that top-grain is much thinner. After being sanded and polished, this type of leather has a finishing coat applied for stain protection and to protect the leather from moisture.
While top-grain leather may be more appealing to the eyes for some, it will wear out over time. It resists rain, snow, and stains much better than top-grain, but is significantly thinner, and will not develop a patina because of the synthetic finish applied by the manufacturer.
3. Corrected-grain
Corrected-grain leathers get their name largely because the leather used is much lower quality than full-grain or top-grain leather. This type of leather is much less expensive and only available in semi-aniline and pigmented finishes.
Corrected-grain doesn’t meet the quality standards necessary to make a quality finished leather product, and so after being sanded and polished, an artificial grain is added to the surface to add the appearance of a fine leather product. A protective coating is also applied, making it appear similar to top-grain leather finishes. It doesn’t breathe as well because of this.
Corrected-grain leather can be unpredictable in terms of how long it lasts because only the manufacturer knows the hide stock it came from. Due to the low price, corrected-grain is still attractive if the budget doesn’t allow for a higher quality option.
4. Split
Split leather is made from the highly fibrous bottom side of a hide after the top-layer has been removed for use in full-grain and top-layer products. It’s most commonly used in bycast and suede, and the finished leather is very strong.
In the case of some types of hides like cow, buffalo, and other thick-skinned varieties, up to four or five splits might be possible. Split hides are given an artificial grain like corrected-grain products, and then sealed.
Split leather can be the least expensive, but also strong and durable when water and sweat are avoided.
Conclusion
Education is so important before putting your money down on a leather product such as clothing and furniture finished in leather. Reputable retailers will clearly state the origins of the leather they sell.
However, understanding what “type” of leather you’re paying for ensures you get the highest quality material, without over-paying based on the positive reviews and/or marketing hype surrounding a lot of products out there on the market today.
